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Post by inkjet on Jan 22, 2006 23:43:06 GMT 1
On this three day training Course how are you told to account for kitchen and bathroom tiles which only go partly up the wall/
I prefer to fix rollers to walls instead of lintel
Also not keen on drilling into tiles and then lintel on fully tiled bathroom.
All tips on measuring in kitchens working over sinks etc welcome
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Post by Blind Scout on Jan 24, 2006 0:42:49 GMT 1
Part 1 don't know, my training was a couple of hours in a hotel. If semi-tiled, with standard tiles, then normally use the wall to wall measurement. The distance from the fabric to the outside of the bracket will usually clear the tile. Thicker tiles need to be allowed for, usually at the spigot end as a chain wind mechanism will still clear the tiles.
Side wall fixing is great for 2 reasons, no steel lintles to drill, and with crap joining angles the builders can't get right, the bracket is less likely to angle up and cause the rail to jamb on the removable spigot.
Drilling tiles is not a problem, providing they are properly fitted. Thje problem is 'what lies beneath' If wood or Pboard over wood, I use 5mm through tiles. If hollow Pboard, I use 5.5mm and a walllplug.
Anything in front of the window is a problem. I did have a notion to make up a length of chipboard long enough to span a sink unit, raised with a strap of wood under to clear the sink lip, that one can work on, to avoid damaging the sink, especially stainless steel that are so thin these days, you daren't lean on them accidentally.
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