Drill Bits

[inkjet]

I continually burn out Metal Drill Bits going into Lintel.

Until recently I was buying from DIY stores at over a pound each.


I now buy in bulk from Screwfix.


I try to extend life of bits with a plasterplug sharpener.

I would be interested if anyone has tips on preserving drill bits.

Also how many holes they can comfortably drill. with same bit

and make of drill bit.

I have also tried cooling paste etc

[greenpesto]

Hi 'inkjet' I've been using Screwfix for years. Always 'bulk buy' ... short 'Jobber' drill bits in 50's or 100's & black rubbish bags ( 200's ). Orders over £45 are free delivery as you are probably aware!
I used a sharpener at one time but they don't work on anything below 3mm & even then you don't score well with them after that.
Unlike DIY stores bulk buying really means that you don't worry about blunting or breaking 'bits' due to the cost cutting.
Try altering the size of your 'bit' from job to job as certain sizes work better than others.
I carry a few 1.5mm ( for Roman cleats ) , 2.5mm (for PVC-u windows etc ), 3.0mm ( for roofs & steel lintels ) & a few 3.2mm & 3.5mm for steel.
I've just re-discovered the virtues of 'Cutting, Tapping & Drilling Fluid' ( a bit like your cooling paste ) which will extend your drill bits a fair way. ( Screwfix part no. 18272 @ £2.54 ). Careful though as too much can make small splatter marks.
Also, is your drill fast enough ... too slow will not help?
Off topic items:
Other handy items you may consider are 'Silicon spray' for Headrails & a 'Hot glue gun' ( £10 )for loose hems on 'Verts' or 'trim' on rollers. I've done turn ups on louvres for customers old blinds for cash in the past, e.g. £30 for 20 louvres.
'Sticky Stuff' remover from the supermarket for removing stickers from venetians.
Do you use an 'SDS' drill for concrete? Beats a normal masonry drill 'hands down' every time!!!
( 5mm SDS bit for most jobs ).

Hope this was useful?!!!

[Blind Scout]

Much the same as above. I also use Screwfix for bulk drills, but after having many failures with their own brand, started to use Irwins drills. They seem to last langer, are not as prone to snapping in some steel lintles, and I havn't had one unwind the flutes. Not much extra but worth while. Don't do a 3.2 (1/8) one but all other sizes are ok. I often use a 2.5 drill initially through steel, then follow with a 3.2, seems to take less effort. Don't use too high a speed, this can burn out the drills quicker. If the drill is blunt, it takes more effort to get through steel, and increases the likelehood of snapping with the resulting secondary hole punched into the plasterboard. Usually get 8-12 holes with 2.5 drill.

I carry WD40, as a silicon spray, for sticky vert headrails, squeeky pullys and it doubles as Sticky stuff remover, to remove these self-adhesive lables (sometimes) used to protect the top slat from the headrail on Vens.

Use hot glue to do temp repair on Vert slats that are not bonded correctly, buit I always DOR and replace as the glue can melt in hot sun, especially in conservatories.

[inkjet]

Thanks for your replies.


Still not sure if I should drill fast or slow as Greenresto says fast and Blind Scout Slow.

I have been usiing 4mm for steal lintels as I found the length of the bit a bit short on smaller ones.

But from today I will try slightly smaller bits again.

I do use SDS concreate no problem.




Although I use WD40 I do not always take it in the house but will do from now on.


Must place another Screwfix order.

[hereticus]

The correct answer on this is to drill slow.

HSS (High Speed Steel) Drill Bits are only designed to drill at high speed when drilling is lubricated - when dry, as is inevitable when drilling upwards into a lintel, start slow and just gradually increase the speed until you feel it cutting, or see bits of swarf, then maintain that speed.

Using masonry drills into concrete with a normal hammer drill use the same technique - you can usually sense / hear when the speed is right and the drill is cutting efficiently.

With SDS, of course, its all just like cutting through butter.

[greenpesto]

Inkjet!!!!!
I assume by your 'drill bit' size you are fitting rawl plugs?
In most cases using smaller 'bits' means you can usually screw direct into the steel.
Try drilling slowly at first & then build up speed.

Go careful with the WD40 as it does smell & can discolour cords. Sillarys have always advised against using this stuff. I'd be unhappy having someone using it in my house as I hate the smell.
Would recommend my earlier comment re - Silicone spray ( Screwfix & Halfords do them cheaply ). Will bond to the plastics & moving parts etc. in the Headrail more effectively.

[Blind Scout]

I don't spray WD40 into the headrail, in case it does get on the cords. I spray onto a cloth or paper towel, and wipe the bottom lip, inside and out.

Funny about smells, I don't mind WD40 but hate the lemony sticky stuff remover.

Use no 6 x 1 1//4 or longer screw (I carry up to 2") and screw directly into the steel lintle, predrilled with a 3.2 drill. But I have seen me using different fixing methods on the same blind, start with the smallest and work up as necessary. Catnik lintles are the worst, solid metal with a twisted steel mesh, a right bummer for snapping drills.

[RED]

Try using furniture polish with bees wax in it. The polish desolves and leaves just the bees wax and the customer smells furniture polish and thinks you have cleaned up well. Works a treat.
Red

[desmorse]

Like the furniture polish idea, red. Think I'll give it a try.
Not too sure about accountants reaction to furniture polish though .......

[greenpesto]

Off topic a little I know, but .....
I've gone through 3 Drill/Drivers in 7years. they are used mostly for screwing. NiCad batteries go before anything else.
I'm not one for spending large amounts on these items but NiCad's let me down all the time.
The next generation drill/drivers are on the market which use Lithium batteries so should be a massive improvement.
Has any one used both cheap & expensive drills with current NiCad's?
Is there a difference in performance do you think with the more you pay?
I've just ordered a Makita drill/driver from Screwfix as I've not used this make before.
Light weight is 'order of the day' when screwing blinds all day long, especially in roofs.
Let me know your opinions!!!!!

[gordon]

Being a bit of a skinflint :)I have bought Screwfix's 'own' brand (Ferm) because they are inexpensive and come with a 3 year guarantee. I bought a 24v cordless hammer drill for £40 - came with two batteries and 1 hour charger, and a corded SDS drill for £20. Both are still going strong (been using since March). With the benefit of experience, the cordless drill is a little heavy for use as a screwdriver (but it has built up my arm muscles!), and no use for concrete even with hammer action, so I am about to buy a smaller lighter lower powered cordless for using as a screwdriver and drill for eg metal windows. I have just bought a new Ferm SDS cordless on eBay for £46 all in (a catalogue return) - normally £170 from Screwfix so eBay is also worth a look for inexpensive tools. The Ferm make is being phased out, but I am told that Titan and Direct Power are Ferm rebadged.

[sako]

I use my sds 5mm & 5.5mm to drill the lot conny catnik
wood had the same drill bit for a year just drill n plug no probs :)Use hss on plastic.

[mendipmagpie]

New Product I think
Has anyone seen the ad on the shopping channe l,viewed by me in error I can asure you, for the dual head drill .Its an 18v cordles with a swivel.steel shafted core. They can only be purchased from www.vectordirect.tv It would be handy in conservatories with a drill in one chuck & driver in the other.
I intend trying one when I get back from -HOLS- so if anyone beats me to it would appreciate your comments.
mm

[desmorse]

When drilling in to concrete lintels with SDS, there's an awful lot of dust. I've tried the dust catchers and find they often leave a black mark on the wall. I always get customer to hold nozzle of vacuum cleaner alongside drill, it catches all the dust before it goes anywhere.
I know some of my local colleagues were horrified when I told them, but I've never had a customer complain in over 10 years of doing it. I usually make a joke along the lines of "I'm lazy, if I don't make a mess, I don't have to clear it up." or "I'm trying to keep my hair and beard clean". In fact, most customer are very impressed that I'm keeping their house clean, and frequently turn on their husbands demanding to know why they don't do it.
If I'm drilling tiles or brick with cordless, I do the same but can hold the nozzle myself.

[greenpesto]

Gordon,
I've got the Ferm 24v too. Had it for about 5 years now & still going strong!!! It's the light weight drills that struggle. I've gone through 2 Bosch 9.6v drivers in the past 2 years. Had a 'B&D' before that.

An 'anorak' comment I know but..... My adapter to hold the 'PH2' or 'pozi' bits is magnetic to hold the screws on. This extends the 'bit' from the driver & increases torque. The 'Gold coated bits' give very good grip too.

As for GVM's customers vacc'ing over your shoulder, I've had 2 women over the years insist they stand over me with 'vac' in hand ... always found that a bit odd & creepy without actually inviting them to do it. ....But, it does certain merit I suppose!!!!!

Has any one used a 'Right angled' drill/driver for those tight hard to get areas?