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Post by glen on Oct 10, 2005 20:15:17 GMT 1
Hey guess what I fitted some verts today and there was no extra carriers on there But what I did notice was that the carriers have changed from a solid looking type to a thin hollow type with guides that run down seam of head rail, looks inferior and cheaper BUT it works fine Last 4 verticals I done yesterday had THREE yes THREE EXTRA CARRIERS AND LOUVRE'S ON EACH SIDE OF A SPLIT BUNCH OPTION, BLOODY CRAZY Why can we not have a operator I.D for whoever makes blind at least then the inept operator can be re-trained ? Glen
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Post by Blind Scout on Nov 27, 2005 16:07:17 GMT 1
I believe all the carriers are inferior to what used to be supplied. I like the solid screw cord locking system, great for adjusting the opening balance on split carrier option. The disadvantage was on split blinds was 1) the surplus screw on the non control lead carrier, pulled out the centre spacer. 2) The centre spacer prevents the 2 lead carriers from meeting at the right distance. Soloution, shorted the spacer by about 5mm and remove the surplus screw. This was passed to Hillarys months ago.
However, I have noticed that the blocks are breaking up and cracking. Anyone else found this problem?
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Post by gloryboy on Nov 27, 2005 16:17:52 GMT 1
get the carriers reversed. you still get some that don't close properly but on the whole this solves the problem
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q
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by q on Jan 27, 2006 0:16:58 GMT 1
New carriers in 5 inch headrails only for trail period, apparently the carriers are narrower therefore the bunches are not as large, the difference is minimal, I think this is another cost cutting exercise as the new carriers look cheap and also look as though they will break very easily.
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Post by Blind Scout on Jan 27, 2006 1:00:44 GMT 1
New carriers in 5 inch headrails only for trail period, ... But the rail I fitted was 3.5", and fitted 3 another since. If it's a trial, surly the agents should be informed. Trials usually require 'feedback', and the company should inform its agents to keep them in the picture. The only other comment I can make, is that these seem to be from Nottingham as we get most of our blinds from Washington, (they are packed differently, but that is no guarantee). I haven't had many vertical blind orders since Christmas, mainly selling venetians and rollers. I did e-mail my FSM on this matter, on the 23rd, not had a reply yet, but today received a letter from him saying he had resigned from Hillarys, effective from the end of the month, to pursue his career "in another industry" He came from Twinnings Tea, but to be fair to him, he had been the best FSM for many a year. Could this be the start of an Exodus?
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Post by grumperbear on Jan 27, 2006 9:49:58 GMT 1
lt says it all, the half decent fsm are leaving, leaving us with the w**kers.
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dolly
Full Member
Posts: 243
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Post by dolly on Jun 8, 2006 21:45:26 GMT 1
Every week now i am getting a few headrails without the correct number of carriers (not enough). Has been a problem today on a new "Delta 7". The label on the top of the rail even tells them how many should be on it. Of course it happens only once as a DOR so you cant claim anything back.
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Post by farmer on Jun 9, 2006 20:39:38 GMT 1
Every week now i am getting a few headrails without the correct number of carriers (not enough). Has been a problem today on a new "Delta 7". The label on the top of the rail even tells them how many should be on it. Of course it happens only once as a DOR so you cant claim anything back. as i keep saying, get the replacement rail, keep original for spares. they have got to do something about this scenario, and fast.
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PRESLEY
New Member
Agent PRESLEY 113 809 www.SAMAdvisor.co.uk
Posts: 24
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Post by PRESLEY on Nov 15, 2006 10:18:31 GMT 1
Anyone got any tips for refitting the starlock washer on a luxury headrail, I can manage to prise it off with a screwdriver (just) but can find no way of getting it back on again.
I only ask as I have had a couple of headrails with smashed end caps (thanks shipping), and had to DOR them, but would have prefered to fix in the field rather than go back again if I possibly could.
Thanks
Richard
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Post by grumperbear on Nov 15, 2006 12:23:09 GMT 1
Use a pair of pliers to hold the bar inside the headrail, and use a screw driver to push the starlock washer back on. Only takes a minute to do.
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Post by phugly on Nov 15, 2006 13:19:06 GMT 1
Anyone got any tips for refitting the starlock washer on a luxury headrail, I can manage to prise it off with a screwdriver (just) but can find no way of getting it back on again. I only ask as I have had a couple of headrails with smashed end caps (thanks shipping), and had to DOR them, but would have prefered to fix in the field rather than go back again if I possibly could. Thanks Richard I find that if you just get the washer on you can use a magnetic bit holder from a screwdriver to force it down fully
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PRESLEY
New Member
Agent PRESLEY 113 809 www.SAMAdvisor.co.uk
Posts: 24
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Post by PRESLEY on Nov 15, 2006 14:32:30 GMT 1
Anyone got any tips for refitting the starlock washer on a luxury headrail, I can manage to prise it off with a screwdriver (just) but can find no way of getting it back on again. I only ask as I have had a couple of headrails with smashed end caps (thanks shipping), and had to DOR them, but would have prefered to fix in the field rather than go back again if I possibly could. Thanks Richard I find that if you just get the washer on you can use a magnetic bit holder from a screwdriver to force it down fully Thanks and to you grumpybear as well, I will practice on a DOR, I have enough of them (not my errors I add).
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Post by blinder on Nov 15, 2006 14:56:30 GMT 1
I use a mall socket on the end of a 3/16ths drive screwdriver - you know the ones you get in a £3 socket set. I also put a piece of cardboard in between the end cap and the rod to stop the rod moving as I push the other end. Putting it against a wall also helps.
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Post by Blind Scout on Nov 15, 2006 15:55:51 GMT 1
I put a coin(s), sometimes 20p or if flush £1, inside inbetween the end of the tri-rod and end cap at the opposite end, and push the star washer on with a small screwdriver, holding the end of the rail against a skirting board if long, or if short, against the floor. Long rails will need the carriers extended aloing the rail, to avoid the tri-rod flexing. The coin is required a) to give a clearance, b) to make sure there is suffient length of the tri-rod to put the star washer on.
Finally do not forget to pocket the coin on completion, especially if flush.
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filo
Junior Member
Posts: 51
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Post by filo on Nov 15, 2006 21:38:18 GMT 1
Hi
get yourself a spare wooden acorn off a roller, it's just the right size for the star washer at one end and fits over the bar in a vertical, keep in tool box use when needed .
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