L Shape Profile

[kwikfitfitter]

Dont know if anyone else does this but if you are using L shape profile for your roof blind fit, be it 20 or 25mm dont bother with all the different screws, donuts etc, use a pop riveter, gives a much neater finish and for me its a lot quicker (details on request)





3 4 99 how low can U go

[gloryboy]

how does this work then?

someone posted recently about using 3.5mm drill bit and the screws from ueb's, great tip! much better than the fiddly little things we are supplied with and expected to use, thanks, sorry forgot who said about it.

does anyone have a way around using the snap brackets for the sides of shaped 20mm? i've tried face fix but they don't hold them firmly and the rails slide too much. the snap things are a complete barsteward to construct, could do with a quicker and easier alternative if anyone knows of one.

[mendipmagpie]

If the side bars slip on your 20mm I just use a bent strap bracket at the bottom.It still looks neat and stops the sliding .
MM

[mendipmagpie]

Hi Quickfitter
If I have the time I note the bottom bracket positions when measuring and pop the clips on to the profile if I have a spare time before fitting .Handy and saves time onsite.
MM

[desmorse]

gloryboy said:

how does this work then?

someone posted recently about using 3.5mm drill bit and the screws from ueb's, great tip! much better than the fiddly little things we are supplied with and expected to use, thanks, sorry forgot who said about it.

does anyone have a way around using the snap brackets for the sides of shaped 20mm? i've tried face fix but they don't hold them firmly and the rails slide too much. the snap things are a complete barsteward to construct, could do with a quicker and easier alternative if anyone knows of one.

It was MEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!

Like MM, I use strap brackets if it's an S, T, or U shape. Mark the bottom position of the rail, remove rail and fit the strap bracket so the bottom web is underneath the re-fitted rail. The bracket is virtually invisible.
If it's a P, Q, or R shape, and you just need to nudge the rail up a little, push 1 or 2 wedges between the side and bottom rails. As you tension, the side rail pushes down and locks the wedges in place, keeping the rail a little higher.

[kakalanka]

Does anyone have any tips for fixing L shape profile between joists ( about 60cm wide )?
I've got some rectangular roof pleateds to fit in a posh wooden conservatory that do not run the complete length of the roof. Angle brackets spring to mind, but seem a bit crude.

Thanks

[desmorse]

kakalanka said:

Does anyone have any tips for fixing L shape profile between joists ( about 60cm wide )?
I've got some rectangular roof pleateds to fit in a posh wooden conservatory that do not run the complete length of the roof. Angle brackets spring to mind, but seem a bit crude.

Thanks

couple of ideas

Cut 25mm off 1 web and fold the remaining bit in at 90 degrees so that you can screw through that in to the side of the joists. I do this a lot when PVC conservatory has no end roof bar.
Cut 25mm off 1 web so short length goes between joists and long web screws up through bottom of joists - easiest option if acceptable
Use bent strap brackets, or tab blind door brackets, to fix inside joist then to profile

[kakalanka]

Thanks GVM.................at least no welding involved!!!

Will use option 1 as the position for fitting is too deep for option 2 but will keep for future reference.

Thanks again.

[mendipmagpie]

Help
Anyone got any tips or pitfalls when measuring for crank roof pleated. Fitted loads of 20 & 25 mm .Going to look at one for a friend over the weekend so want to do it as a dummy run

Thanks MM

[desmorse]

mendipmagpie said:

Help
Anyone got any tips or pitfalls when measuring for crank roof pleated. Fitted loads of 20 & 25 mm .Going to look at one for a friend over the weekend so want to do it as a dummy run

Thanks MM

Shaped or rectangles?
If rect, main concern is you can you get pole to rail? If there are vertical headrails in the way, you may not get an alignment of the pole and cup & ball. Try not to put crank at the top end. The ball faces to the wall, it's almost impossible get pole in. Wedges are generally needed if you're not using L profile, again to get the cup & ball in line.
If shaped, all of the above plus corners are more difficult to measure. I've got in to the habit of fitting the L profile before I measure, it's more accurate and means some of the work is done before you even start fitting.
When you come to operate them, the screwdriver is quite slow, but don't use a faster, cordless drill/screwdriver. The winders won't take it and will tangle and jam.

I've done quite a few of these, and sold 4 today. I like them, but the winders are quite fragile and prone to jamming, even a year or more after the fit.

[kakalanka]

Is there a different way of measuring for crank pleated then?...........or just different considerations as outlined by GVM.

I'm not long conservatory trained and this was not mentioned at the time.

[desmorse]

kakalanka said:

Is there a different way of measuring for crank pleated then?...........or just different considerations as outlined by GVM.

I'm not long conservatory trained and this was not mentioned at the time.

Method of measuring is the same, you just need to allow for the deeper bottom rail, making corner intersections more difficult. Sometimes, the intersection point is in mid-air, so you have to stretch tape across and mark that. That's why I put up the critical L profile first and as I said, be sure that there's no obstructions stopping you plugging the wand in to the ball winder.
If you decide to put the profile in first, make sure you have the order signed, deposit paid, and IFCO approved first. Once it's up, you can't easily take it down.
A local colleague of mine once spent 2-3 hours measuring a large shaped roof, then phoned the credit agreement through, which was declined. Customer reaction was "I thought it would be, but it was worth a try". Think I would have turned violent at that stage

[gloryboy]

got a roof with glass walls on 2 sides and brick wall on third, usual vent windows not there so roof coming down onto shelf at top of wall.
thus very cramped space for fixing L shaped profile etc. i've seen in screwfix flexible driveshafts and an angled chuck. has anyone come across this problem before or used either of these products?

[desmorse]

gloryboy said:

got a roof with glass walls on 2 sides and brick wall on third, usual vent windows not there so roof coming down onto shelf at top of wall.
thus very cramped space for fixing L shaped profile etc. i've seen in screwfix flexible driveshafts and an angled chuck. has anyone come across this problem before or used either of these products?

Had similar problem last year. Screwfix did a cordless right angle drill, but it looked a bit bulky in the battery area. I bought a 240volt right angle drill from B&Q, their own Pro something or other make, cost aroud £75. You also need to buy stubby drills, the standard jobber drill are too long.
Where are you? I'm just north of Portmouth, if in this area you can borrow mine as I've not used it since, but I do have 1 fit coming where I will need it again - so that'll be twice in 16+ years!

[gloryboy]

thanks gvm, but bit far to travel.
these bits i saw in screwfix cat. were for attaching to current drill and were around £30/£40.
good point about the drill bits though, hadn't thought about that!